ACTIVE INGREDIENTS OF THE MOST ADVANCED SKIN RESEARCH
During the last years we are facing a significant progress in the field of the active ingredients available for cosmetic preparations. The main reason for this progress is better understanding of the biochemical and physiological processes in the tissue, due to progress in skin research.
In Creative skin care Series we used the most advanced active ingredient launched recently:
- New generation of moisturizers with deep action on the skin structure (Low Molecular weight hyaluronic Acid, AQUAXYL)
- New generation of bio-mimetic peptides (MATRIXYL SYNTHE'6, IDEALIFT) for minimizing wrinkles.
- New generation of plant stem cells to support dermal stem cells (PHYTOCELLTECH ARGAN).
- New generation of powerful antioxidants against the visible signs of oxidative aging (CHROMOCARETM).
Creative series includes five products:
Creative Moisturizing Cream
Creative Nourishing Cream
Creative eye Cream
Creative Silver Mask
The series is suitable for the mature dry skin.
Creative Moisturizing Cream (50ml, 250ml)
This day cream contains new generation of moisturizers with deep action on the skin structure and function: a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. This ingredient helps the skin to maintain an optimal hydration level and enhances the firmness of the skin by supporting collagen synthesis.
Aquaxyl: a moisturizer of plant origin. It has been demonstrated that Aquaxyl isncrease epidermal water content, increases the dermal water reservoir and improves the barrier function of the skin by stimulating ceramide synthesis. The cream contains also Phytocelltech Argan an advanced form of plant stem cell extract obtained from Argan leaves. It has been demonstrated that Phytocelltech Argan increase the vitality of human dermal stem cells. Clinical test indicates increase in collagen density after 56 days of using cream with Phytocelltech Argan.
Creative Nourishing Cream (50ml, 250ml)
This special cream contains the most advanced bio-mimetic peptides, Matrixyl Synthe'6. Matrixyl Synthe'6 stimulates the synthesis of not less than 6 major structural components of the dermal matrix and the epidermal-dermal junction. Clinical test showed significant improvement in wrinkles volume and depth. The cream contains VC-IP, a stable active form of vitamin C which helps to maintain an even skin tone and stimulates collagen synthesis.
Creative eye Cream (30ml)
This cream is a liquid emulsion with very rich and silky feel. It contains Phytocelltech Argan an advanced form of plant stem cell extract, olive oil squalan (one of the main components of the skin sebum and the hydrolipidic film, it prevents moisture loss and restores the skin suppleness and flexibility) and vitamin E.
Creative Serum (50ml)
A rich silky emulsion with advanced active ingredients: Chromocare™, a combination of two plant extracts with skin lightening effect. wrinkles are not the only symptom of skin aging. Skin tone is an important signal of health beauty and attractiveness.
Idealift™ is a bio-mimetic peptide targeted to fight skin sagging and to improve resistance to gravity. Idealift™ has good stimulating effect on elastin synthesis. It fights skin sagging and decreases the visible effects of gravity on the skin.
Creative Silver Mask (50ml, 250ml)
A creamy rich mask (not drying on the skin) with beautiful silver color. Active ingredients: Aqua Cacteen obtained from the Opuntia Cactus . The extract is rich in flavonoides, polysaccharides, minerals and vitamins. It calms the skin, increases the moisture level and firmness.
NEW GENERATION OF MOISURIZERS WITH DEEP ACTION ON SKIN STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION:
LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT HYALURONIC ACID (5000-300,0000D):
Strengthening the skin's natural defenses by inducing the release of the beta-defensins (anti-bacterial peptides).
- Improving the biomechanical properties of the skin – firmness.
- reinforcing certain types of interactions between cells in the epidermis (tight junctions).
- Regeneration of matrix components (stimulation of collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis) and minimizing wrinkles.
Hyaluronic acid is one of the main constituents of the extra cellular matrix of the dermis (ECM). Due to its exceptional physical properties, it plays a predominant role in the proper function and appearance of the skin. Due to its high water retention ability, hyaluronic acid is of prime importance in skin moisture regulation.
Hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases with age. Many of the changes associated with skin aging, such as loss of elasticity, dehydration and wrinkle formation are linked to the depilation of this substance.
High molecular weight (1-1.4 million) hyaluronic acid has been used as an effective moisturizer in cosmetic preparations for many years. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid shows better skin penetration and act in the epidermis and the dermis in order to regulate hydration and to increase skin firmness.
AQUAXYL: a new generation of active ingredients affecting the epidermis and the dermis. By cosmetogenomic mechanism, the active substance (sugars from vegetable origin) stimulates the synthesis of proteins and enzymes essential to the function of the skin barrier (different types of keratin, loricrin, transglutaminase). Aquaxyl stimulates the synthesis of the amino acids of the epidermis natural moisture factor (NMF). The active substance also stimulates the synthesis of l ceramides and other lipids essential for the skin barrier. Aquaxyl stimulates the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the epidermis and dermis.
Bio-mimetic peptides are bio-engineered small proteins, composed of several amino acids. Normally these peptides are bound to a lipid molecule in order to improve skin penetration and bioavailability. These molecules penetrate the skin and can affect specific processes in the tissue. By stimulating biochemical processes or slowing them down these ingredients may provide significant beneficial cosmetic effect.
In Creative skin care series two new bio-mimetic peptides were used: MATRIXYL SYNTHE'6 and IDEALIFT.
Matrixyl Synthe'6 is a new highly effective bio-mimetic peptide. It belongs to a family of peptides called matrikines.
Matrikines peptides are identical to fractions of the extracellular matrix components. Therefore, they may act as regulatory factors able to regulate cell activities.
Matrixyl Synthe'6 stimulates the synthesis of not less than 6 major structural components of the dermal matrix and the epidermal-dermal junction: Collagen I, Collagen III, Fibronectin, Hyaluronic acid, laminin, collagen IV.
Clinical test 25 volunteers applied cream with 2% Matrixyl synthe'6 twice a day. Significant improvement in wrinkles volume and depth.
Anti-wrinkle efficacy on the crow\s feet area (the sides of the face).
Idealift™ is a bio-mimetic peptide targeted to fight skin sagging and to improve resistance to gravity.
As we age, the effects of gravity on the skin become more and more visible. The skin is not as firm as it used to be and it begins to sag.
The resistance of the tissue to gravity decreases gradually with the age. One of the most visible phenomenons is the sagging of the jaws which cause deformation of the facial contour.
The content of elastin in the skin is only 2-5%, still it is the protein that responsible for the resistance to straching. The extension of the elastic fibers is reversible. Like a spring it returns the skin perfectly to its former position.
Idealift™ is a dipeptide linked to a lipid chain to increase bioavailability.
Idealift™ has good stimulating effect on elastin synthesis. It fights skin sagging and decreases the visible effects of gravity on the skin.
Idealift™ was shown to stimulate elastin by 4 fold in fibroblasts culture. The actual quantity of elastin release from the fibroblasts into the extra cellular matrix increased by more than 94%.
Clinical tests (26 female volunteers using cream containing 4% Idealift):
Evaluation of the facial resistance to sagging by photographic image analysis:
A constant weight (35g) was fixed to the lower face area in order to stimulate gravity and measure the resistance to sagging.
By special software the triangular zone of the stanched area was measured.
Idealift™ reduced the area stanched by the weight by 24% with respect to the placebo.
The Second Generation of Stem Cell Cosmetics
Dermal Stem Cells – The Next Target
Controlling the regenerative potential of dermal stem cells would make it possible to restore matrix components, to correct loss of skin firmness and elasticity and to minimise wrinkles. Till recently, there were no details of the dermal stem cells.
Recently, a research group at the University of Toronto showed that the dermal papilla is a source for dermal stem cells. These stem cells were found to self-renew, to induce the formation of hair follicles and to migrate into the inter-follicular dermis where they differentiated to fibroblast cells able to regenerate the extracellular matrix.
Phytocelltech Argan is plant srem cell extract obtained from Argan leaves by special technique (Phytocelltech. It has been demonstrated that Phytocelltech Argan increase the vitality of human dermal stem cells.
Clinical test indicates increase in collagen density after 56 days of using cream with 0.4% Phytocelltech Argan.
The dark area in the left ultrasound image (white arrow) indicats zone of lower density collagen. Improvment in collagen density is
demonstrated in the right image (yellow arrow).
Powerful antioxidants against the visible effects of oxidative aging:
wrinkles are not the only symptom of skin aging. skin tone is an important signal of health beauty and attractiveness. Recent research has shown that people are sensitive to variation in skin tone, and such variation affects visual perception of female facial attractiveness, health, and age.
Thus, skin color distribution, independent of skin surface topography, seems to have a major influence on our appearance.
CHROMOCARE™: Acting on chromophores
for even skin tone.
Chromophores are colored molecules, the color arises when a molecule absorbs certain wavelengths of visible light and transmits or reflects others. The two main chromophores in the skin are melanin and haemoglobin.
The distribution of these two chromophores in young skin is very homogeneous. Thus, a young healthy skin has an even complexion
oxidative stress generated by free radicals enhances skin aging processes and among others stimulates melanogenesis (melanin production and distribution) and affects blood capillaries and microcirculation. These processes result in pigmentation and skin redness.
CHROMOCARE™ reduces the heterogeneity of the chromophores melanine and hemoglobin and induces even skin tone.
CHROMOCARE™ is a combination of two plant extracts (Rabdosia rubescens rich in oridonin and Siegesbeckia orientalis extract rich in darutoside).
In-vitro tests indicated that CHROMOCARE™ reduces free radicals and stimulates antioxidant defenses. It was found to stimulate the production of reduced glutathione (GHS), a key component in the cell's antioxidant defense.
CHROMOCARE™ also reduces melanin content and distribution, reduces inflammation mediators, increases collagen synthesis and reduces collagen degradation.
Clinical tests showed reduction of melanin and redness.